A year ago I had a simple but memorable sandwich at Kos Kaffe with a spicy, creamy mustard butter. In case you’re wondering, mustard butter is exactly what you think it is: mustard mixed with butter. This uncomplicated condiment opened a new nook in my culinary world as I thought: What else can I add to butter? In the past 365 days a favorite has emerged and fruit butters are solidly part of my kitchen repertoire. Most recently we’ve been snacking on mango butter, which became the building block for a weeknight dinner that turned out so spectacularly, I had to share it with you.
I added chile to the mango butter, as its sweetness benefited from a slap of spice. Slathered over salmon (because you know what I love on my fat? Fat.) it screamed for texture, so I topped it with caramelized macadamia nuts (adapted from Ottolenghi’s Plenty). Fresh cilantro and a squeeze of lime balance the richness and bring some color to the dish. Serve it over rice or alongside steamed vegetables for an easy but impressive meal.
Salmon with Mango-Chile Butter and Caramelized Macadamia Nuts
1 dried guajillo chile
8 tbsp butter, room temperature
1 c fresh mango
1/2 c macadamia nuts
1 tbsp butter
1 tbsp sugar
4 salmon fillets
1/2 cup cilantro, roughly chopped
1 lime, cut into four wedges
salt and pepper
sunflower oil, or other neutral high-heat oil
1. Make the mango-chile butter: Bring about 2 cups water to a boil and pour over the chile in a small bowl. After five minutes, pour out the water and add the chile, butter, and mango to a food processor or blender. Process until smooth.
2. Make the caramelized macadamia nuts: Add the macadamia nuts to a small pan over medium heat and toast, stirring often, until golden-brown. Add the butter and toss until melted. Sprinkle the sugar and a pinch of salt over the nuts and cook, stirring often, until the sugar is melted and beginning to brown, then remove from heat before the sugar overcaramelizes. Pour onto a piece of parchment to cool.
3. Add the oil to a large pan over medium-high heat. Generously salt and pepper the salmon fillets and add to the pan. Flip the fillets when you can see they are cooked about halfway through (you can see it turning pale pink from the side) and a golden-brown crust has formed. Sear on the second side and cook until the exterior is fully pink. A bit of the interior should still be brighter pink. Remove from the heat and let cool a few minutes before adding the toppings.
4. Generously spread the mango-chile butter on each salmon fillet (about 2-3 tbsp per fillet – there will be plenty of leftover butter) and top each with a fourth of the caramelized nuts. Divide the cilantro evenly between each plate and serve with a lime wedge.
Serves 4
I thrive on being busy. The busier I am, the more I get done; inversely, the less I have on my plate, the less productive I am. (Also, the more coffee I consume the more I get done. And talk…looots of talking when I’m on caffeine.) It’s a matter of momentum, I suppose. Like a game of Tetris, I enjoy fitting additional tasks into an already industrious schedule.
This mentality served me well on the farm, where the work was never done. Each day’s “to do” list was just enough beyond attainable to make us think it might be completed if only we worked just a bit harder, and in the background of the hands-on work was a continuous chorus of thought: How can we do this more efficiently? how can we make this more profitable? The physical and creative challenges of farm life suited me well. At night, I would fall into a deep sleep of exhausted accomplishment.
Now I find myself with an entirely different lifestyle – one that I chose and enthusiastically embrace but that also comes with unexpected challenges. Being at home with Z isn’t always conducive to a checklist – I can’t look back on my day and pinpoint concrete tasks I’ve completed. I suppose I could make myself feel better by breaking it down…Changed 10 diapers: check. Nursed 8 times: check. 1 hour tummy time: check.
But that’s not really in the spirit of parenting is it? Loved my son: check.
Nearly seven months into this gig, I wish I could write that I’ve successfully shifted my mindset and now reach the end of each day feeling fulfilled, but that’s not where I am. I am still adjusting. I’m better able to really be with Z and put aside the “to do’s” stacking up in my mind but also scramble to “get things done” during windows of free time. As with any new job, it’s a learning process, and I feel good as long as I keep improving, keep working toward the right balance.
I’m lucky that Z is a predictable napper, so almost every day I can prep for dinner while he’s down in the afternoon. All the chopping is done before Ben gets home, so our meal comes together quickly.
This soup is a great family meal because even your newest little eater can enjoy it. While I normally prefer my food heavily spiced, we had this soup on a warm night and wanted something refreshing. The cumin, coriander, and ginger here add a bit of complexity without overshadowing the carrot and pear, and the soup on the whole strikes a nice balance between sweet and savory.
Carrot and Pear Soup
olive or coconut oil
1 medium yellow onion, roughly chopped
pinch of salt
1 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp ground coriander seed
4 large carrots, roughly chopped
4 small pears, roughly chopped
2-inch piece fresh ginger, grated or finely chopped
3 c vegetable stock
cilantro and toasted and chopped macadamia nuts, to garnish
1. Place a large pot over medium heat and add enough oil to cover the bottom in a thin layer. Once hot, add the onion, salt, cumin, and coriander and cook until the onions are translucent.
2.Add the carrots and cook until tender, stirring occasionally. Add oil (or a bit of water if you prefer) as necessary to keep the vegetables from sticking to the bottom of the pot. Add the pears and ginger and cook for another few minutes, until the pears are tender.
3. Add the vegetable stock and raise heat to high until the liquid is hot. Remove from heat and process until smooth using a hand blender or in a blender. Depending on the size of your blender, you may need to do this in batches. If you want the soup completely smooth, you can then push it through a fine mesh seive, but I wasn’t so particular. Garnish with fresh cilantro and chopped macadamias.